How to draft your own straight leg trouser/pants pattern
I used to be complety scared of the thought of sew a pair of trousers, mainly because I heard a lot of frustration stories on pattern alterations.
After a lot of good advice I decided to conquer my fear head on and instead of trying to alter a commercial pattern I decided to draft my own. I would like to share that journey with you and hopefully you will also be able to make perfect fitting trousers.
If you do try to make your 1st pair, please send your photos as I would love to congratulate you!
Drafting technique: Intermediate
Measurements you will need:
Waist (divided by 4 – refer as 4W, half of your waist is 2W)
Hips (divided by 4- Refer as 4H)
CDA – Distance between your waist and your hips.
Knee(divided by 4- Refer as 4K)
Ankle (divided by 4- Refer as 4A)
STG: this measurement is your hip measurement without the last number. I.e. if your hip is 94 cm your STG number is 9. If your hip is 105 your STG is 10.
Paper (Use tissue paper, spot and cross or any other paper that have a large enough because you will draw both side of the pattern (front/ back) at the same time. )
Dressmaking rulers ( I used Ioli brand)
|My rulers- Selection to make trousers, dresses and bodices !
If you are serious in making your own clothes I would recommend that instead of spending a lot of money on patterns (they cost from £3 to £14 each) for you to invest in special rulers. They will help you draw any pattern you want and once you have the basic shape, the alterations in collars, sleeves, hems will transform your basic pattern. I think they are called sewing blocks. I have not been to fashion school so everything I learned is through books and websites, which inspired me on the creation of “house of Pinheiro “. Ok less talk and get on with this tutorial. Sorry. I talk too much!!!!
How to draft your pattern:
Always start the same way :create a horizontal and vertical line measuring 3 cm – they are your margins
Draw on the vertical line your crochet height plus your leg height minus 2 cm
In that line, identify your keen height and make a note. Also identify your SGT minus 2cm.
Draw/Mark your 4H minus 1 and connect in the line where your croth height is.
Starting from your half of your SGT in the crotch height line make a dot
Make another dot in the line of your CDA
Sum (4H+1) + (Half of your SGT) = Measurement A
Take half of measurement A and create a seam line from waist until your leg height.
Mark zipper line one cm from the waist.
In the waist line mark where it meets the side seam with 4w starts with a dot
In the middle of your 4W+3 draw an axis for the dart (10 cm).
Measure 1 cm from each side of the axis and connect forming the dart
Draw our 4H +1 and connect with crotch height.
Sum 4H+1+SGT+2 = Measurement B
Take half of measurement B and create a seam line from the waist to your leg height.
You don’t want to show your bum when you bend down so we need to make the trousers from the back a bit higher so you mark the waist 3m higher from your original horizontal margin declining to the vertical line.
In the middle of your 4W+3 draw an axis for the dart (12 cm).
This is straight leg design, but you easily alter. I will teach you how if you stick around. This pattern is for women’s trousers only.
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Lots of love