Gertie’s Bow-tie Blouse Progress

Hello, production at House of Pinheiro is at full force!!! Who knows when I will have the luxury to sew all day without feeling guilty again!
Like many of you, I got Gertie’s book. It arrived a week before my dissertation was due and I was very excited to try something as soon as possible. What I love about the book is that it seems to comes from a sewist point of view. She started her journey like many of us, so I feel her voice it’s real.
My favourite pattern of the book is the Wiggle dress, however I wanted to try something quicker and went for the Bow-Tie Blouse.

I normally just cut my pattern papers direct but the patterns on the book come printed at both sides so I had to copy first.

The darts were wrong and the sleeves were bulging… Kimono sleeve is quite troublesome.

Gertie’s original vogue pattern (Vogue’s New Book for Better Sewing) made in 2009 had excess underarm bulge too and she looked fab!

Then I went about my alterations by superimposing a basic block( drafted by me based on my measurements) pattern and the original.

Redrafted the sleeves, changed darts… I tried many variations until I was happy with the design and fit without affecting the features of the pattern.

I even considered adding a gusset under the Kimono sleeve to improve the fit, luckily I didn’t need it.

During my research, I stumble on  great references and tutorials…

Colette’s Mid Century Kimono Sleeves
Gertie’s Style Dictionary : Kimono Sleeves 
Sherry from Pattern Scissor Cloth: Kimono sleeve gusset
Pattern Making Kimono Sleeve

Overall, the fitting of her pattern isn’t different from the other patterns I tried. However I thought there wasn’t enough markings. I like using notches and felt I needed more then the ones provided.
I didn’t understood the neckline explanation and end up been a bit fiddly. In the end I just did what I felt it was right. It would be great if there were a tutorial on it. 
My blouse is ready now. I just need some photos… 
So what’s next on my sewing table? I was working on the darling range before this blouse and it was very frustrating… how a design can look so simple and not be. The fit was all over the place and I just left behind. The viscose is beautiful so its almost a sin to leave unfinished. I will try again soon!
The weather is getting cold in the UK so my spring/summer sewing its at the end for the year.. bring woolly coats. I’m thinking of Gertie’s sew along, Lady Grey and Minoru. 
Exciting times!!!
  • Can’t wait to see the final product!

    • Hi Amanda, if you like the blouse i think you will like my version…

  • It sounds like you’ve been through a lot making this pattern work for you. I appreciate notches to guide my sewing as well.
    If you make the Minoru, use the sewalong details on the Sewaholic blog. The instructions on the pattern can be a bit vague but the sewalong gives you more options and clearer instructions. I love my Minoru jacket. It’s been a go-to jacket throughout our mild winter.

    • oh, thanks for the tip.. i will follow her tutorial.

      Al patterns cause me problems. Im 6ft tall (1.81) and patterns are made for (1.65). Patterns are B cup, I’m DD. My neck is very small, as my wrists. My body lengthen is short and my legs are long… in a hourglass figure. its a big balancing act to create items that fit well and proportional to my shape.

  • I am curious to see the blouse in action! So far I worked with one of Gertie’s patterns which was not easy to work with: the Starlet Jacket 🙁

  • As much as I sympathize with your fitting frustrations, it’s good to hear others going through it too, and that I’m not alone – I’ve been dealing with neckline problems on the Colette Peony; a beginner pattern! lol Makes me feel so DURR lol 🙂

    That said I’m really excited to see your version of the bow blouse! That’s one of my favourites from the book 🙂

  • Ah yes, kimono sleeves! I’ve got a muslin in progress with these and it seems to be the norm to have a bit of fabric bulge with cut-on style sleeves. It looks off in calico I think because it’s rather a stiff fabric, whereas gertie’s blouse is in a softer, drapier fabric, making the fabric glut under the arm less obvious.
    The wiggle dress is my favourite too!

  • Can’t wait to see the finished project! I traced off the blouse the other day but still have to muslin it to check the fit.

  • Can’t wait to see the photos!!!

  • I haven’t received the book and I’m nervous LOL. I’ve bought the Gertie Butterick dress as well.

  • So proud your back to sewing and enjoying yourself.Look forward to seeing the completed blouse.. Have fun.Happy sewing.

  • Ooh, I’m excited to see your finished shirt! And you will look amazing in the wiggle dress!!

  • I just made my second Bow Tie blouse, and definitely had to do some adjustments to the neckline. The sleeves also wrinkle up under the arms. Overall, though, I love this blouse and it’s super easy once the fit is adjusted.