Anise Muslin Progress

Hello Darlings,
I want to share my WIP on the Colette Anise coat. Having the support of my sewcoatbuddies have been invaluable. I would procrastinate for ever If I didn’t have the peer pressure to post extra support.
I have made a jacket before and It took me almost 5 months. Alterations are complicated and time consuming so having a structure like the Anise sew along to break tasks into manageable chucks its really helpful.
Of course, there are a lot more work in between.
Muslin 1 
  • Debated between cutting a size 10 and size 8. At first I was going to cut the back smaller (8) and the front (10) but went with cutting only one size(10). In practice my coat should allow me to wear thick layers underneath.  As you can tell, the back was WAY too big and the front ‘closed’ with the fit off; tight at the bust and large on the bodice and gaping at the sides. The pocket placement was off.
Muslin 2
  • Cut size 8 and did an FBA. Worked so much better. The back still gapes mainly on side seams. I used a dead dart (4 in/10 cm off) at the centre front.
  • Dropped the shoulders & did a slopped shoulder adjustment. The pocket placement actually falls in a better position.
  • The front is almost there but the back adjustments. Size 6 maybe?

You probably wonder why the jacket look so long. The lengthen is size 18 to give me the some design options. I haven’t decided yet how short I want. It current hits 9 in/23 cm bellow the waist without hem allowance.

This modifications of the main fabric pieces don’t worry me as much as lining modifications . I’m in uncharted water there. I may have to muslin those too!

In the meanwhile, I have a project ready show you soon …. Saw the sneaky peak on instagram?

  • Looks like you are making steady progress, am sure the finished coat will be well worth the muslin-ing.

    • I hope so.. Did you see Sonja( Ginger Make) red version? OMG was amazing

  • Your Anise muslin is looking great Rachel and can’t wait to see your finished make too!

  • Looking good! I’m looking forward to seeing the finished version, I’m pretty tempted by this pattern but haven’t gotten it yet.

  • looks great! i think i made 2 muslins in all (and i did most of the length adjustments on the flat pattern before the first one) but coats are complicated! i know i spent a while once i had the right fit messing around with button and pocket placement. i didn’t have too many problems with the lining tho – i just made the same adjustments to those pieces and it worked OK. i was insanely worried about not being able to get clothes on underneath it, but it is actually fine – i guess the slippery lining rather than rough calico helps in that area. i love sonja’s version too!

  • This is a great pattern and your muslins have you almost there. Great work and determination.

  • Your muslin(s) are looking good – love the inspiration

  • Looking good.Second muslin looks very close to me. I haven’t touched the pattern yet. Anxious to see how yours turns out.

  • C+B

    I really like your blog, it is one of the few blogs that I have subscribed to. Everything you make is so stylish, patterns I would have never looked at are transformed into wonderful clothes in your hands! It is so nice that you share the steps of your projects: I am a beginner, and suffer from impatience, one of the things you have opened my eyes to is the pleasure of taking it slowly and thinking a little bit about what I want to achieve. Thank you for sharing!

  • Your muslins are looking good.. I just know your coat will be fabulous, Can’t wait to see it. Happy sewing.

  • You are a fitting rock star, Rachel!! You’ve totally inspired me to muslin my coat today. Thanks #sewcoatbuddy!

  • Love your fabric choice – very chic. Can’t wait to see! x

  • I always admire/get really jealous of how good you are with fitting! I never know where to start or what needs to be done :/

  • Honey you are so good at this fit business, really impressed and taking it all in! Just don’t be tempted to overfit the armholes – the heavier fabric really stabilises what now looks like too much fabric, and you need it there with clothes on underneath. And of course the sleeve heads and shoulder pads, they all really work that space. SO relax! 🙂

  • puu

    that second muslin is looking pretty solid! love that inspiration piece.

  • I like the longer look for this coat. I think I haven’t considered this pattern before because of the shorter length.

  • It’s really coming along!

  • This is looking good. You are making progress which is more than I’m doing. I have to say you are making me nervous though – all your comments about FBAs and dead darts are right over my head! I’m glad I’ve chosen a simple A-line shape!

  • Thank you for documenting getting the fit right. That’s what throws a lot of sewers.

  • You are making great progress, you have definitely inspired me to make a start on mine!

  • Mind if I ask what a dead dart is? I’ve never heard of it!
    Well done on your progress! 🙂

    • When you want to remove excess fabric you use a dead dart. A normal dart, where you finish at a certain point to gain extra fabric one part and remove from other, the dead dart dont. It just removes all the excess. It must finish at the end of the garment

  • Wow, amazing work so far! If you’re making lots of alteration to the shell of the jacket, you may want to create new lining pattern pieces altogether, rather than trying to copy the alterations you made from the outer layer pattern pieces to the lining pieces. I know that ‘Tailoring: the classic guide to sewing the perfect jacket’ has step-by-step instructions for drafting a lining pattern from an unlined jacket pattern.
    I’ve spent the last three months or so using this book to make a jacket for my boyfriend. The book is great. The jacket is still kicking my butt.

    I can’t wait to see your Anise turns out!

  • Love the fabric choice, especially in black and white, so fashionable and versatile!

  • Your ability to make so many alterations and fit things so perfectly amazes me!