{Creative Process} Vintage 60’s Dress: 2 step forwards; 1 step back

Hello friends,
Let me share a quick progress of the re-creation of darted vintage dress. (We must pick a name for it).  I drafted and muslin-ed the first version…
Drafting/window reference: Measurement sheet and notebook
Here are the muslin observations…
I have sewn only the front muslin and the photos above shown it pinned the shoulders seams on my dress. I’m not worried about the back dress pattern as I will just lengthen my block as in.

  • There was excess on the shoulder. Probably when I manipulated the dart A the fullness wasn’t transferred completely. I had two options; look back at the dart manipulation and make sure the I moved the same amount of cm (in) or drape/eliminate the dart in my body, which I did the later. I need to the ensure I add back the difference on shoulder seam to compensate dragging inwards. 
  • There was excess on dart B at two points, near the armhole and at the waist. I pinched both.
Have you notice my topsy-turvy muslin?With one side on the right and the other on the wrong? I am so used to have to pinch excess fabric to shape my patterns and didn’t want to miss the opportunity to try this idea since the pattern isn’t cut on the fold.  I can observe the fit on the right side and make the adjustments, annotations on the wrong side. Of course, this just work if you are symmetric, which I am.


Bust dart A manipulation worked well but need a few adjustments.
Bust dart B is not working at all.

What’s next: I will try to re-draft again considering the initial muslin results and keep you all posted.

Ps: Thanks Maddie  for the encouragement and the wise words:”Keep at it girl. Many time I go through 2 or 3 muslins before I get the right fit.”

Thanks to Claire to as she kindly offered to digitise this for us.

lots of love,

  • This is so exciting. I love watching something progress like this. You’re doing such a great job manipulating the darts and I can’t wait to see the next step in your progress.

  • Great Job Rachel.. Know it will be beautiful , when you finish.

  • I am blown away by your brain and knowledge about what to adjust. You go girl! And thank you so much for letting us watch the creative process.

  • you are really getting into the experimenting – but somehow I am sure you’ll figure it out. Good luck

  • I can’t wait!

  • Hi, this looks amazing, and way over my head at the moment. Can’t wait to see the finished dress. The inspiration picture is just stunning!

  • this is so interesting! keep going!

  • Topsy turvy muslin: what a great idea!
    I love these posts where you detail your fitting process. Keep it up!

  • This is a complete and thorough job of research … Wow! You are incredible!

  • Ooh, this is going to be amazing! It’s so fun to see this dress coming together, even in muslin form!

  • It’s super interesting to see the drafting process at work!

  • I’m super impressed by your muslin-ing. I usually skip this step, and then just have to adapt my expectations to the inevitable results.