As promised I will try to share a bit of my creative process. This is the latest object of my desire. A 1964 darted slim fitted dress. Look at those darts! My heart is beating super fast! I must draft this pattern and make it in beautiful wool. I must!!!!
My eyes first spotted this dress while browsing a charity shop book during Christmas, neitherless to say for £1.50 it has come home with me. The book is called “Creating Fashion”by Betty Foster.
This book has interesting history about the beginning of garments constructions by civilisation from with simple roman to when people started to adapt and manipulate basic shapes. It has a few basic pattern drafting instructions, however as it was published in 1983, so you can imagine the amount of ease it’s included on instructions of the book! Crazy. I don’t like drafting with ease or seam allowances so I wont use it. The book acts more like a reference for fashion students with a lot of history instead of a step by step instructions. There is little information next to the photo so I decided to use only the photo as my reference.
Instead of jumping into drafting a basic block, I decided to understand the design first so when I draft the pattern I wouldn’t have to re-do it if I need more fabric for dart manipulation.
There are 2 different darts on this design. A bust dart moved to the CF and a fisheye dart pivoted from apex to CDA. Observing the design, I made some assumptions and guidelines for my drafting.
Above is the Pati Palmer’s dart manipulation practice sloper I use to play around.None of the existing lines suited me and decided to drawing a line between the vertical waist dart and the centre front dart to transfer the fullness of the original dart to create dart A(CF)
|My faithful notebook get scribble all over as ideas surges. Funny thing is that I write in (bad) English.|
Dart B, same principle. Using the waist dart, I drawn a line to the shoulder dart and a french dart, manipulated until the angle I wanted. To make sure the angle was doable, I enlisted the help of Betty. I use pins for her apex and a elastic on the waist! So fun to make a mimi toile.
|Besides the bad stitching/pivoting, this step really help me visualise the pattern.|
I wrote my modifications down and the next step its get drafting the pattern real size to manipulate the darts accordingly. Thereafter, is the fun part of sew a toile. This project is long term and will be updated as I progress. My colette Beignet has been cut and is waiting for me to sew.
Anyone has any advice for me?
On another note, I been thinking to make this pattern available for free download after I finish, anyone would be interested? The only problem is that I don’t know how to digitise/or grade a pattern on the computer. I will be able to make it a PDF on my size. If anyone how know and want to volunteer to digitise/grade for others will be appreciate it!