How to solve a problem like Rachel

How to solve a problem like Rachel
Hello darlings, 
Many had expressed interest on my fitting methods, so I decided to create a mini fitting series inspired on my biggest fitting issues. I’m not an expert in the subject, so don’t take my advice as gospel. This is based on my experience and learning.

There are three main methods of fitting: Flat pattern (body measurement against the pattern), Pin (tissue fit) method and trial garment (muslin). I did a post my personal preferences.


For me, good fit its one that balance my figure with comfort and style. With time I have learned what type of styles work for me and how to modify styles that otherwise wouldn’t work well.


I’m taller than average (6 ft/ 1.82 cm): Modifications vary from simply slashing and spreading the pattern to create length, to dropping darts and re-drafting armholes.


With a small neck means my neckline requires reducing at the front and back of a pattern.
I have hourglass figure and my bust size requires an FBA. The difference between my front body length to my back body length is 3 cm  normally fixed by sway back adjustment. Oh, I cannot forget the shallow chest!

My back is narrow and my shoulders slope. My posture slouches too.
My only trouble for lower body is lack of patterns length. Most my alterations are on the top half of my body.
Today I will talk about: Neckline. 


My main issue is when designs have a high neckline because it will generally stand up chocking me.


Before I give you advice, it’s important clarify what is a good neckline fit.
The neck must lie smoothly against the base of the neck at the front, side and back.
Crosses near the top of the collar bone or at base of the throat depression.
Doesn’t rub on the neck, wrinkle or gapes.

On the flat pattern: If you don’t have a body slopper you can use the pivot and slide method. Tracing the neckline, marking, pivoting and tracing a new neckline. I use my body slopper overlaying between the traced pattern and re tracing the difference between my slopper and pattern. That is the same way I fix slopped shoulders. 2 in 1 solution!



To fix gaposis; Release the shoulder and back neckline seams, take the shoulders seam and tape at the shoulder tip while lowering the back neckline at equal amount at the shoulder. I fold a tuck on the bodice front, between the neck and the armhole near the shoulders seam, tapering at the shoulder tip. Then I would fold a tuck across the centre back, equal to the change on the shoulders, tapering at shoulder tip.  


Next one of the mini-series will continue with shallow chest.

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