#Dakotasewalong: Guest post from Named. How to sew Dakota’s shawl collar

#Dakotasewalong: Guest post from Named. How to sew Dakota’s shawl collar
Hello there Dakota sewalongists, and greetings from the cold and dark Helsinki! We have been given the honour to offer you some tips about sewing the Dakota shawl collar, so let’s get down to business!
Despite of its looks, shawl collar is actually one of the simpler collar constructions, and if you pay attention to a couple of trickier parts, it’s definitely easy to succeed! Basically, the Dakota collar is constructed of two pieces; The front edges of the front piece, that will be united with the back piece at the neckline, and folded to the sides, creating the under-side of the collar. The collar facing will be sewn to the front piece, and it will actually form the outer, visible side of the collar.
Before starting to construct the collar, interface the collar facings, sew all darts, and the side and center back seams. Sew also the center back seams of the collar (the top edges of the front piece) and collar facing, right sides together and press all seam allowances open. Make sure that all edges are finished, except the collar edge – the front edges of the front piece and the collar facing. The collar edges will be finished together later to avoid bulk.
Sewing the shoulder seams is the first part where you should be careful, and match the pieces correctly, so the collar will set nicely without any wrinkles. Here’s how you will do it:

1.     Take the back piece, and push a pin through the corner (of shoulder and neckline), at the intersecting point of the seam allowances (A). Find the intersecting point of the front piece too, and pin the two pieces together (B). Leave the pin there at the intersecting point, this is where you should finish the shoulder seam (C).

2.     Sew the shoulders carefully from armhole until the pin (D). Then pin the back of the collar (top of the front piece) to the neckline carefully – make a small pleat close to the end of the shoulder seam, so you can pin the corner of the front piece neatly (E). Match the center back seams and pin (F).
This seam between the back neckline and the collar is probably the hardest part of this type of collar, as you are actually joining together two corners, and it might create some unwanted pleats. But don’t worry, it’s definitely doable! (And, this part will be covered by the collar, so if you make some minor flaws, no-one will notice anyway!):

3.     Sew the neckline, have the collar (front piece) up, so you can make sure not to machine over the pleats (G). It’s ok to leave a little gap between the shoulder seam and the neck seam (H), because from the right side it will look just fine, no wrinkles! (I)
The rest is quite straightforward:
4.     Now, pin and sew the collar facing to the bodice, right sides together and matching center back seams and notches (J). After sewing, finish the edges together (K).

5.     Press the seam allowances towards the bodice, understitch if necessary. Then press the facing carefully inside the bodice, and pin it down (L). Stitch the inner edge of the facing to the bodice from right side of the garment, following the edge of the facing; Start from front edge, move towards the neckline, sew around the neck and finish to the front on other side. (You can also turn the facing’s inner edge, but if you are doing so, add one or couple of centimeters of extra allowance already to the pattern before cutting the facing. – M) This seam will stay under the collar, and prevent the facing from popping out (N).

6.     Hurraye, you have now constructed a shawl collar! You can lightly press the collar to fold correctly to the sides to finish the shape.

… And that’s basically it, simple as that! We hope this little tutorial has been helpful for those of you who might have had problems with sewing the collar.
Thank you for reading, and have fun sewing!
Saara & Laura from Named
Thank you so much girls. It is not only cold and dark in Finland, here in the Uk is dreadful.  Sew Along-ers, tomorrow’s post will share a few more tips on how to sew your collar so If you still have a burning question, pop it over the comments.
  • I’m a complete nuff at reading patterns and I’m still confused by the collar despite your careful instructions – I don’t understand where the front piece collar sections and the collar fit together. It’s all so confusing!

    • hi Clare, tomorrow i will be posting bigger and clearer pictures and tips.

    • Don’t worry Clare, I had exactly the same issues! If you tune in tomorrow, Rachel will be sharing a second collar post that should offer some extra assistance in this area ;o)

    • I had the same trouble, but I placed all my pieces on my mannequin, and compared it to the photos and it became clear. Thinking in 3D helped me 😉

    • I did the same as Sandra in order to sew the facing to the bodice. I still had an issue understanding how to finish the collar, (step 5 above) but after reading this post a few times, I think I know what to do. Looking forward to the post tomorrow!

#Dakotasewalong: Guest post from Named. How to sew Dakota’s shawl collar

#Dakotasewalong: Guest post from Named. How to sew Dakota’s shawl collar
Hello there Dakota sewalongists, and greetings from the cold and dark Helsinki! We have been given the honour to offer you some tips about sewing the Dakota shawl collar, so let’s get down to business!
Despite of its looks, shawl collar is actually one of the simpler collar constructions, and if you pay attention to a couple of trickier parts, it’s definitely easy to succeed! Basically, the Dakota collar is constructed of two pieces; The front edges of the front piece, that will be united with the back piece at the neckline, and folded to the sides, creating the under-side of the collar. The collar facing will be sewn to the front piece, and it will actually form the outer, visible side of the collar.
Before starting to construct the collar, interface the collar facings, sew all darts, and the side and center back seams. Sew also the center back seams of the collar (the top edges of the front piece) and collar facing, right sides together and press all seam allowances open. Make sure that all edges are finished, except the collar edge – the front edges of the front piece and the collar facing. The collar edges will be finished together later to avoid bulk.
Sewing the shoulder seams is the first part where you should be careful, and match the pieces correctly, so the collar will set nicely without any wrinkles. Here’s how you will do it:

1.     Take the back piece, and push a pin through the corner (of shoulder and neckline), at the intersecting point of the seam allowances (A). Find the intersecting point of the front piece too, and pin the two pieces together (B). Leave the pin there at the intersecting point, this is where you should finish the shoulder seam (C).

2.     Sew the shoulders carefully from armhole until the pin (D). Then pin the back of the collar (top of the front piece) to the neckline carefully – make a small pleat close to the end of the shoulder seam, so you can pin the corner of the front piece neatly (E). Match the center back seams and pin (F).
This seam between the back neckline and the collar is probably the hardest part of this type of collar, as you are actually joining together two corners, and it might create some unwanted pleats. But don’t worry, it’s definitely doable! (And, this part will be covered by the collar, so if you make some minor flaws, no-one will notice anyway!):

3.     Sew the neckline, have the collar (front piece) up, so you can make sure not to machine over the pleats (G). It’s ok to leave a little gap between the shoulder seam and the neck seam (H), because from the right side it will look just fine, no wrinkles! (I)
The rest is quite straightforward:
4.     Now, pin and sew the collar facing to the bodice, right sides together and matching center back seams and notches (J). After sewing, finish the edges together (K).

5.     Press the seam allowances towards the bodice, understitch if necessary. Then press the facing carefully inside the bodice, and pin it down (L). Stitch the inner edge of the facing to the bodice from right side of the garment, following the edge of the facing; Start from front edge, move towards the neckline, sew around the neck and finish to the front on other side. (You can also turn the facing’s inner edge, but if you are doing so, add one or couple of centimeters of extra allowance already to the pattern before cutting the facing. – M) This seam will stay under the collar, and prevent the facing from popping out (N).

6.     Hurraye, you have now constructed a shawl collar! You can lightly press the collar to fold correctly to the sides to finish the shape.

… And that’s basically it, simple as that! We hope this little tutorial has been helpful for those of you who might have had problems with sewing the collar.
Thank you for reading, and have fun sewing!
Saara & Laura from Named
Thank you so much girls. It is not only cold and dark in Finland, here in the Uk is dreadful.  Sew Along-ers, tomorrow’s post will share a few more tips on how to sew your collar so If you still have a burning question, pop it over the comments.
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