”Pleats Please“

Hello friends,

Did you know that twenty years ago, Issey Miyake developed an unique technique, making him famous designer world wide? One of the developments of his creative process was sewing clothes two or three sizes bigger than intended, than applying the garment into a press, developed by him, pleating it perfectly. The garment would be sandwiched within paper and manually feed to the machine. His technique was so efficient that it didn’t matter what type of garment, they all has beautifully uniformed and fine pleats.  Kudos!
Issey Miyake: Pleats Please (Picture by Francis Giacobetti)

His collection was called Pleats Please’ made out of high quality tricot knit (100% polyester: only fabric that keep the pleats in shape). His pressing machine allowed him to play with pleats designs to different effects. His clothes were intended to be practical and easy to wear, mainly solid colours. If you are interested in his creative journey, a Pleats Please has been launched to celebrate his creative journey. 

I have been given a copy by Taschen which I’m devouring right now. 

Midori Kitamura: Pleats Please Issey Miyake
Beyond visually stunning, the book brings rich content for fashion lovers. From defining the designer,  the concept behind his collection, production process, his customers, and guest artist on his vision. Small spoiler: The are delicious pictures of food inspired by the pleats made by Yasuaki Yoshinaga.

Chapter 2 is specially intriguing for me: It goes on a journey on how to create the right fabric, taking in consideration it’s functionality into the future. The manufacturing process of the final product from the concept reflects the bridge from designers ideas to viable business.

His pleats are so delicate and exquisite. Unfortunately not something we can replicate at home. We have our own home sewing pleats queen. If you are inspired to sew some yourself, check out Julia Bobbin’s pleats tutorial.

  • The lucky New Yorkers have an option to get similar pleating done at International Pleating (http://www.internationalpleating.com/). I haven’t tried them myself – being now London-based. Sniff.

    I wonder if you’d also like Mariano Fortuny’s silk micro-pleats. Or do you prefer the more modern take of Miyake?

  • I so want to get some fabric treated this way! It looks amazing and you don’t have to do anything! Thanks so much for the shout out as well 🙂

  • This is such great info! He is so big here in Australia, his stuff is so so beautiful. You are full of great trivia, thank you !

    • I love finding out interesting and inspiring information on creative process. So glad you enjoyed reading more

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    I LOVE Miyake’s Pleats Please line. Was first introduced several years ago when I saw a bag my friend bought at his store in Japan. I wish you had another copy of the book to give away!

  • It sounds fascinating!

  • I came across a Miyake pleats please store when I was in Tokyo last month. The pleated fabric was amazing. It had beautiful movement and shape. And it was surprisingly light. I was lusting after a scarf but think it was over $200. A little out of my budget.