2013 finished on a creative high with another self drafted make. In parallel to the Brasilia Dress, last year I drafted 2 other patterns: a simple base coat for numerous customisations and a raglan shirt.
The coat shape is a slightly A line with waist shaping. This is the first “muslin” version of this pattern and I can already see changes I would like to make. Instead of a peter pan collar I feel this shape will look better with a round neckline in a longer length. Maybe 2 fabrics contrasting?
The pattern haven’t got an official name yet. The blog post reference is mainly due to the fabric.
This was kindly nicknamed based on a children’s TV program (BTW, I never ever watched) during a tea round by my fellow. I cannot record his exact words but think about a very British ironic punt regarding my coat looks at that stage…
The coat making journey was a long one: It started during the summer when Annie gifting me this beautiful Amy Butler pink linen blend. Excited to use for a summer jacket/coat I cut the fabric. Unfortunately lack of planning got the best of me and I was too busy with other deadlines. The cut coat was forgotten. When I had more time the winter months already arrived and I had to make a choice. Was this to become an UFO parked till next summer or would I try to be creative and make it winter-friendly!
Stash digging, I found a fluffy fleece and some red linen. How about if I quilted my coat using the fleece as the warming factor.
When deciding on quilting ready cut patterns you need to think how that will affect the overall fit. Does the pattern ease would allow for an average 5% shrinkage? When you quilt fabric, it tends to reduce overall size. That is why you will only cut the backing after you quilted everything. I had already cut the pattern so the quilting could distort the shaping. Not sure if my math was right but I decided that it was worth the risk! How relieved for me to know it worked well. Other details of this coat: The quilting was spaced 5 cm crosswise, instead of button holes I went with poppets and the seams were finished with hong kong finish using ready made bias from Brasil.
Tips for quilting a garment:
- Quilt your fabric before cutting the pattern.
- If you want to quilt just one layer of fabric and wadding (fleece or underlining), Bare in mind the type of fabric that will be in direct contact with your pressure foot. To avoid it getting caught, add a light layer of muslin, layering: your fashion fabric, wadding and muslin, to avoid the wading getting stuck. It didn’t happen on my project because I quilted all 3 layers, including the lining.
- Blend the thread to the fabric. I have quilted many large projects and know how to fold and control it under the machine and even than sometimes I get distract and the line aren’t as straight. If the thread colour blends well, tiny misses will be unnoticeable.
- Quilting (walking foot) is your best friend.
In another news:
I’m a contestant on season 3 project sewn: Loads of secret sewing going on right now and a quieter blog.
The 2014 international craft swap will be open early April: I am working on the details and themes.
There will be another large sewing meet up in London in May.