Velvet & Boning

Velvet & Boning
 
Its party time. Are you coming? Should I practice my catwalk for the grand reveal? Sadly I wont be joining the Blogging Network  event tomorrow in person. Doesn’t mean I cannot make a stunning party outfit. 
 
You know, us Brazilians have a duty to our country during the world cup. World cup opening was yesterday. ( go Brasil ) Surely I will be impressing the stadium goers with my lady like dress more appropriate outfit.
 
I dont want to be giving too much away on this post… I can tell there is boning, bra cups, suede and velvet.
 
Am I crazy? Sew two different fabrics with distinct nap requirements. Two notoriously difficult fabrics to sew. Not to mention is the first time I make a structure bustier style bodice. Panic!
 
Not only I completly enjoyed sewing the bustier, I’m repeating the pattern for my Birthday dress in Brazilian traditional fabric: #chita.
 
Some claim there isn’t a more luxurious fabric than Velvet. I would go further. Velvet is a Diva! Treat her well and she may be good to you, Ohhh when you least expect, well.. she will try to be the boss. You just have to take a few cautions and dont let her get to your head. 
 
The inspiration of my outfit is the 50s silhouette, in particular Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2010 Collection.
Source: Courtesy of Style.com
The pattern is an altered Burdastyle buster 5/2011 #127 and the Betty dress:skirt pattern from Sew Over it. Really loved the result.
 
Construction wise I followed the Bombshell class on Craftsy. Instead of sewing channels for steal boning I used sew in Rigeline. That was sewn on the underlay of my bodice. 
 
The bust cups were made out of wadding instead of cup foam. I need to start having on my stash lingerie supplies.  Suggestions are welcome to where to get some. There are cut small and joined together by zig zag stitch. Threads advice adding to the end of rigeline scrap on the end. I think is supposedly to avoid hurting the skin. I had the lining to protect me but I  sewn it anyway.
 
Are you tempted to sew velvet? Hear me Sistaaa!
  • Check the tension, some machines will sew better with a looser tension.
  • Tack Tack Tack, velvet is slippery.
  • Do NOT Iron, gentle steam from afar.
  • Because of the nap direction, better to cut all single.
  • Mark the back of the fabric the direction of the nap, so if you move round you can still remember how you cut it.
  • Sharp Blades. Rotary cutters help on smaller pieces, like straight straps. Serrated scissors are great.
  • Test a few different needles. I used Microtex 70/10 as it works best with the suede. Stitch length set as 3mm.
  • When sewing, show you are the boss by sewing the fabric taunt, holding both the front and back.
  • Roller or walking feet are essential.
  • This diva frays like nothing else I have given the nickname of caterpillar because of the hairy fraying style. Overlock before sewing. I promise you.. it will be worth it.
  • Use pattern weights instead of pins
  • To insert the invisible zipper, try to bast first. I dont like hand inserting a zipper but if you do, it would be better..
  • To hem, cut 1 cm strips of silk organza and overlock the ends together, then use that as a guide, hand stitching the hem. Was quite relaxing job.
For those that are going to attend the event tomorrow, enjoy! Full dress reveal and more constructions tips soon.
 
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