Sewing tip: Do you know those paper interfacing not very suitable for clothing? (non woven- light weight) Those are perfect to interface patterns.
I made a muslin following Susan Khalje’s method for thread tracing.
Because of the chita (Brazilian fabric) cheap and cheerful characteristic meant I had to sew 4 layers for the busier. For structure, body and because of the open weave needed reinforcement.
King K enlighten his fail safe method I choose to follow. To improve the structure he underlines both the outer fabric and lining- with cotton flannel and twill respectively. I just used medium weight white cotton for both. Rigeline is a very easy way to start but I wasn’t complete trilled by it. Because it comes curved, after sewn it still have a raised shape. I had to be sure to sew all the same direction and against the body.
Instead of the sewn in straps from the pattern I opted for making adjustable ties-in, hand sewing the flower trim on top.
The green invisible zipper is almost invisible….
Forget that, check out the back bodice print placement! High Five, right!
The pattern for the belt is inspired by Lisette bow belt . I didn’t have a printer available to print the pattern so I just drafted based the instructions.
Did you notice that the back skirt doesn’t have the traditional pleats. I changed to a light gathering at the centre back.
I didn’t want a lining hanging separately so I sewn the lining to the outer fabric. No hemming needed!
The dress looks so well crafted. To be honest everyone were so impressed but also thought I was crazy, what! all that work on such a cheap and costum-y fabric. It doesn’t matter. I wanted my dress to fit the style of my birthday party theme and most importantly: I felt beautiful wearing it. ( If you want to know more about my party, check related posts: Festa Junina/ Apron 1/ Apron 2 &3 )
Birth of a Bustier by Kenneth D. King
Three ways to attach Boning by Threads magazine
Sewing a Boned Bodice With Plastic Boning by Sewaholic
Boning supplies: Sew Curvy
Gertie’s Time-Saving Trick for a Boned Bodice Muslin
A few burry pictures of me wearing at the party!
Ok, my fellow is totally being good sports on dressing up in crazy Brazilian costume but that face! LOL BTW I made his matching tie and Maria hand sewn his trousers patches.