Disaster in a dress. Burda 6858

Hello friends,

I wanted to make an easy christmas dress for my last MCBN of the year and was intrigued by Burda 6858, part of their recent release of paper patterns. I bought a few during a sale. The long sleeves and maxi skirt really appealed to me specially the side cut-outs. Very trendy right now. I have seen loads of similar dresses on RTW. Not having a picture or design diagram of the back on the pattern envelop should have given me a clue: Danger!Danger!
The envelop lacks a lot of information that is presented in some shape or form inside the pattern.  Instructions are better than from the magazine. The order of sewing is extremely odd. But that’s nothing: you can always learn how to do something differently and pick what works for you. 
The sizing was super confusing.  In European pattern size scale I can go from 38-40-42. Looking at what appeared to be the pattern size chart I went with 42. Mistake number one. It was HUGE. I can only assumed that the measurements stated were finished measurements.

The sleeves look twisted in some pictures but that is mainly me  moving jumping like a lunatic to keep warm between pictures.  It a nippy 1C outside! I know I’m a whip for cold weather. Brrrrrrrrr…

The finish sleeve size was said to be 61cm. Mine is 66 cm so I needed to add 5 cm, but when I looked/measure the pattern (I measure raglan length from the underarm side seam to the end of sleeve) it was clear that the current size would fit me fine.

As like finishing my knit sleeves with cuffs so I actually took 3 cm length from the pattern and turned them into cuffs. I did lengthen the bodice front and back by 4 cm. If I didn’t the cut outs would have been on top of my boobs. The back just cover my bra band after the change. So this pattern runs large in width but short in bodice lengthen with extreme long arms and skirt.

The skirt is view C without modifications. The patterns has seam allowances so I didn’t add anything that could contribute to the extra width.

Am I right to assume the “young” range is drafted like a petite or shorter height that normal?

The main issue with the pattern is the back and I think there is drafting oversight for views A/B. There is nothing to stop the back bodice riding up and the back skirt sliding down.  I’m even more concern by view A and how the neckline ( just a strip of double folded bias made out of the main fabric) will sustain the weight of the jersey without the shoulders support.

I enclosed the seam with sparkly FOE.  Bad idea, It just make it curled as I move and doesn’t sits straight. To be totally honest, even with my ‘tight and short’ tendencies this dress turned out way to hoockerish!  

The front of the dress isn’t that bad if didn’t add the FOE. I just doesn’t sit straight.  The back still needs some modifications to actually turn this dress “Real life-wearable” instead of ‘editorial’.

I debated for days if I was going to share the picture of the full back but I decided that I cannot. It’s way too revealing for the internet so you got to trust me on that.  This dress was a booboo!

I actually found a dress exactly like mine selling for Β£272

source Nasty Gals
Realistic now, If I cannot share on the blog that means is something that I shouldn’t really wear in public. In a cutting rage, I sliced the dress just above the cut-outs and joined the skirt. Took 5 mins. The original dress is actually very quick to make. The rescued dress is OK. It’s just an empire waist mini. Not my usual style but at least I’m not binned completely.

Have you taken a plunge on a new pattern and It turned out a disaster? Did you binned or saved?

Do share.

  • Hi Rachel, I am so sorry about your dress.Know it is frustrating…
    I made a dress awhile back [cant remember what the pattern was?. It was AWFUL…from beginning to end.. I was so frustrated with it… I chunked the pattern the dress and all in the garbage and never looked back.lol
    Happy new Year.

  • Anonymous

    Hello Rachel,
    I use Burda paper patterns a lot, and have found the young patterns skirts fit fine, but the dresses and tops are always small on me.
    You always look great! Thanks for your inspiring projects.

  • Anonymous

    How frustrating, but at least you got something wearable out of it in the end. And that shade of red is gorgeous on you. It really suits you. I tried the Simplicity 1652 and it was hideous. What was I thinking? Amazing fit?! My arse.

  • The dress looks well, colour is really lovely and the bindings coordinate well, and at least you rescued it – i have not used burda patterns since the 80s as i never liked their cut on me, and i know well that feeling of sewing something and not going so well……. my christmas dress is still on the mannequin with a flaw in the seam that i cannot bring myself back to face yet.

  • Oh dear, just sounds like a bad pattern. It looks cute from the front though. I like view C with the filled-in panels.

  • Hello Rachel, I’m actually really happy you share your frustrations with the patterns. I do experience the same. Belcarra top http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/belcarra-blouse-pdf-sewing-pattern/ . It doesn’t work for me so adaptions needed.
    I bought a pattern for a dress from Stoff2000 http://stof2000.dk/shop/moenstre/homemade-voksne/kjole_top_overdel/ruth-kjole-str.-34-44-. It was like a big sack. Transformed in a coat πŸ™‚ I will send you some pictures!

  • First thing first, you’ve done an amazing job on rescuing the dress! The colour looks so lovely on you, you should make more garments using similar hue πŸ˜‰

  • Oh no! It is a bit pretty woman with nothing worn underneath! The colour is great tho. Glad you managed to save it.

  • Well it’s a gorgeous colour on you at least! πŸ™‚ I’ve yet to try any Burda patterns. Do some designers/brands of patterns suit some body shapes better than others I wonder. As for dress disasters I’ve had a couple, no amount of fiddling and adjusting could save them. Sigh. Thanks for sharing, inspired me to do the same.

  • Great post Rachel! I started sewing with Burda patterns and i have a special place in my heart for them. Anyway, you can always buy slopers, adjust them to your measurements and use them as guidelines for your projects πŸ˜‰

  • Oh I’m sorry to read about your misery Rachel! I have had frustrating sewing experiences in the past, and usually the final items (if I ever get to that stage) ended up in the bin, or if it’s vaguely wearable but just doesn’t suit me, in the charity shop. I feel your frustration but am also pleased to see that you’ve managed to rescue it x

  • It’s so very kind of you to share this. The ‘fails’ are often more instructive than the successes, but oh so humiliating to photograph. You are generous as well as talented; this one failed you.

  • i’ve had a Burda disaster, that did just have to be binned and was so upset. And it took years for me to try another.

  • Oh, bless you for sharing! The sewing is amazing, it’s just the pattern that is a bit out there. We all live and learn – and we all love seeing the things that didn’t work as much as the things that do.

  • Oh yes, we all have huge disasters!! most of mine are either trashed or sent to my mum, whom I can say is a rare species since she loves adjusting and/or mending clothings… much more than just sewing.
    This dress looks great BTW

  • Oh dear, what a frustrating sew! I’m not very fond of the Burda patterns… there’s something kind of crazy about the sizing. I’m glad you were able to rescue the dress. Even if it’s not exciting, it’s cute and wearable, so not a total waste of time!

  • Too bad since the color is beautiful on you. Cut outs are tricky – a little is good, but it can go bad quickly!

  • Anonymous

    Sorry about your boooboo dress,I can see the sadness in your eyes, I know that feeling all too well.
    I find burda patterns either hit or miss! I attempted in May issue 2014, the tulip skirt dress no 109, fell in love with the picture cut into some lovely floral linen fabric and sadly near the end disaster struck, the neckline was so low and gaping, beyond repair, waste of time, money and effort, threw it in the dustbin, it was`nt meant to be, but always have hope for the next project and look on the bright side. Lorrain