Knit peplum top with underarm gusset

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Hello friends.

This is another pattern from Manequim; not from a printed magazine issue but from a free PDF library made available in 2013. I downloaded all the patterns at the time and forgot about it. When I decided to organise + back up my digital sewing patterns I stumbled on a folder full of Mannequim patterns. Yeah!

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I’m a huge fan of interesting seaming and the underarm gusset of this pattern really catches my imagination. It’s super couture and awesome.

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Like the previous pattern I made from this “brand’, this blouse only comes in one size without seam allowance; and again this was size 42. For your reference on their patterns i’m size 38-40.  Nothing like a quick run/ sew to see what alterations needed.

For my test version, in Portuguese we call it “PEÇA PILOTO”, I used a thick ponte roma knit. Really heavy and structured. I sewn size 42 as is without adding seam allowance and sewing a 5/8 seam (1,5 cm).

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As you can see on the actress and on me the princess seams don’t really go over the apex like they should.

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I’m unsure if this is a design feature or fitting on the wrong place or a bit of both. What do you think?The bust fit is definitely not perfect.

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After sewing this blouse I have an impression the pattern size is petite. There are a few design changes+fitting improvements to be made on this pattern for future versions. Overall I really love how fits on the shoulder, the sleeves and neckline. I will wear my Simone blouse happily. I’m calling it Simone because it is the name of the actress wearing it.I skipped the zipper and modified the peplum which I still want to improve upon the fit and length. After posting a snapshot preview with details of this finished blouse on Instagram so many readers said they couldn’t get the pattern free anymore. Unfortunately looks like when the “mother site’ that encompasses all the magazines from that publisher went for a style makeover; they haven’t bothered to update the patterns files. You will find the page; but once you press “download” it will redirect you to an error message. Such a bummer.

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I contacted the publisher to report the bug and ask If they will fix the website. I got zero response. Zeroooooooo. There are over 1.000 messages on the magazine Fb page on the subject. I have been asked to share the file over the blog so anyone could make it this blouse if they wanted. I think, and correct me if I’m wrong, that legally and morally It would be ok to share this free pattern as long as I give Manequim full design credit. It would be ideal if they fix their original download page or even provide an explanation for why the old free patterns won’t be available anymore. I will ask for permission to post and feedback to you. Would a step-by-step picture on how to sew be useful in case the pattern can be made downloadable?

The instructions are text based only and in Portuguese.

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  • Karen

    Oh yes, please. If you are allowed instructions would be wonderful. Ignorant American I am, only speak the language I grew up with.
    Thank you, Karen in Illinois

    • The Portuguese instructions are together with the PDF . I will be taking step by step pictures so it helps on the construction if I can post it here.

  • Hi Rachel.
    I would definitely make this top if the pattern were available. I think this shape looks awesome on you (better than the model). I agree, the princess seam should go over the bust. For your next one, I think you could lengthen the bodice just a tad. Great job and thanks for posting all the detail.

    • Thanks Diane. I think this top is so cute would be a shame not be available because someone didn’t care to fix a website bug

  • Lynn

    So long as the princess seam goes within 2-3″ of your bust point, that is fine. After that – it is a design choice as to exactly where.

    • Nice to know. Thanks darling

  • Kamila

    Hi Rachel. I’ve been following your blog (and reading back through your posts voraciously!) for a while now but haven’t commented yet. I really like your blog! Your style is imaginative and inspiring and your posts are very encouraging for sewers who are just starting out — I’m one of them 🙂

    The princess seams may be a bit off but the top still looks very good on you. I only noticed that the curve fell closer to the side when you pointed it out. I don’t think I would have noticed it otherwise. The style really suits you. I’ve always been very cautious about peplums but looking at your photos, I wonder if I should rethink my position 😉

    • Hi Kamila. Thanks so much for the follow. I didn’t do for the full look because I don’t like it either but adding pleats give just enough volume

  • you always do such professional work and have a great eye for what will suit you. another win!

    having said that, i believe that an open forum such as this should be more than a collection of mutual admiration and compliments. it should also be a place where we exchange ideas and try to pass on information what we’ve learned. so, here goes:

    a seamline on a princess style is not meant to go directly over the apex, but rather over the place where a regular side bust dart would end, which this does. also, if you swiveled the waist dart to the armscye the princess seam would go over the place where that dart would normally end. if you look at the fold under your arm, that tells you where that dart would be coming from. the pattern needs tweaking for your bust shape and size to eliminate the crease, but even still, the princess seamline rolls right over the end of the ‘dart’, right where it belongs.

    it’s a very nice style and very flattering. pin out the crease on the pattern and try it again.

    • Hi Barbara, Thank you. Sometimes I don’t express my English really well but with lovely readers like you can jump on and help out. I’m sure others will love the piece of knowloge you posted.

  • Lovely as always! I have made several manaquim patterns, when they’re your size they are awesome. I do have a question for you, did you happen to perhaps download the men’s motorcycle jacket pattern? If yes would you be willing to share it? It is the only men’s motorcycle jacket pattern I have found in months of searching, and of course you can’t download the pattern now. My husband has been promised one, and I am really dreading drafting it.

    • I will look and let you know. Xx

      • I haven’t Im afraid.

  • Lovely top. I suspect the seams are supposed to be there. There would be quite a lot of work around the armhole and the curve to move them. I love the peplum.

  • I love it and I am short waisted, I would make it (although for sure I’d skip the peplum and make it as a tshirt!) Probably could figure it out without the instructions, but your photos and help would be great too!

  • Hi Rachel, I really like this top, what an unusual detail of the gusset but those things kind of make interesting, like you say.

    Regarding sharing the pattern, as long as the magazine gets back to you to say it’s fine then you will be ok but I would be wary about sharing it without them explicitly saying giving permission. For copyright reasons, even if you credit it to them, they may still have an issue under their original terms of use of the pattern. If you can find anything in their original release of the pattern that mentions distribution or terms of use that would probably help.

    • Thanks Hun. In Brasil the redistribution is almost second nature. People just do it. Unfortunatly the norm hurts creatives and the industry suffers. I won’t share unless I get permission but what annoys me it’s the publisher cannot be bother to fix a broken link and ignore that people will just re-share. On the Facebook page of the publisher there are so many links from blogs sharing it and they are ok with that. It makes me so angry on the laziness on their part.

  • A knit peplum top is my lazy day go to – and would be great if you could share the pattern! I think yours looks great but I do agree the placement of the princess seams seems a little off…

  • Brilliant! I love it & it really looks great on you. I sewed a similar silhouette the other day but don’t really feel super comfy in it. The seam design is interesting but you’re right Re the seams around the bust area, maybe you can change them when you make it again! x

  • jen (NY)

    Cute blouse. Maybe they are side-panels rather than true princess seams? I tend to have a problem with side panels and do a princess seam adjustment on them anyway.

    In regard to sharing the Mannequim pattern, I’m sorry to say it, but you should consult a UK or Brasilian lawyer before doing something like that. Even though they have made the pattern open on their own website, at least in the US, redistributing the pattern yourself would tend to violate copyright laws. (Unless Mannequim has specifically stated that anyone is free to redistribute it). A simple link would probably be better from that perspective. Hope that helps.

    • I won’t risk without written permission even if legally ok in Brasil. I wouldn’t feel right. i posted the original link on the post. Thanks for your perspective Jen

  • I agree, the princess seam can be anywhere from over the apex towards the side, but too far over to the side and it is no longer a princess seam. How far off the apex you make it depends on the shape and spacing of your bust and how it looks on you. If you want to get rid of the drag line above the apex you need to make an fba. Yes, even for a knit. Pin out the fold line and that’s the size of your fba.
    It’s a very cute top. Love the pleats.

  • I love the top, although yes, on second tought the princess seams seem to be a little off. Wouldn’t have noticed without you mentioning it. Just a quick word of warning re: publishing the pattern: Here in Germany what you propose to do would be mega-illegal and could land you with a hefty fine. Here, you could only publish the patterns if you had the express permission of the copyright holder. Giving credit etc. wouldn’t make any difference to that legal position. So maybe check what the laws in Brazil are resp. if British or Brazilian laws apply.

    • Thanks Cris. Laws in Brazil are fuzzy and imcomplete. One of the things I’m the most embarrassed about my culture it’s the complete lack of respect for intellectual rights. people don’t respect and even respectable sources would just repost without any references.

  • This looks really neat- might be cool in a color block kind of style, also!

  • Hilde

    Looks very nice!! Love the choice of fabric.

  • MarieHuxley

    Ladies, legally it goes like that: if you buy a book or get one for free as a present you are still free to lend it to your friends. Always, always! There was no fee associated with it in the first place. hesitant about Rachel’s shyness in sharing it.
    Share it! 🙂 Please-please-please!

    • MarieHuxley

      Edit: Googled around to find it online and found it here: http://costuramoderna.com.br/faca-a-sua-propria-blusa-modelo-peplum/ I downloaded already, traced the patterns and almost started to cut. But … I will first translate the Portuguese instructions instead 🙂 I believe the seam allowance is not included… Happy sewing, everyone 🙂

  • Adeline ISACH

    Bonjour Rachel, ce top est superbe et vous va divinement bien. Je ne parle pas bien l’anglais, mais j’ai compris que vous pouviez partager votre patron. ça m’intéresse beaucoup. J’ai découvert votre magnifique blog par ‘jolies bobines’. Je vous embrasse. Adeline