Lining is such an important part of an outfit and should be considered as much as the otter fabric. It is constructed separately and applied to the inside of our coats. It will protect the seams and help the garment maintain it’s shape. On coats patterns many designers will add 1 cm (3/8 in) to the sleeve underarm to increase comfort and allow the sleeve to fit perfectly over the underarm seam allowance. The pattern uses the same pattern pieces for the outer fabric and lining so I have decided to adjust the underarm sleeve pattern for mine. (Pattern piece 10 for your reference)
Pattern instruction step 35: The pattern ask for a narrow hem. Since a lot of our coat was finished with bias binding I thought it would give my coat a more concise look by finishing the lining hem with bias.
We already covered how-to sew hong kong finish on the last post:Back Assembly.
Step 36. By adding a pleat at the centre back the designer allows for better moment across your shoulder blades. Baste and stitch until the small circle. Don’t forget to give a good press.( Step 37). I cannot emphasise enough that every finished sewing stage needs good pressing. We will be steamed by the end of the sew along, LOL. You will be pressing the pleat towards left back.
For the Sleeves Lining. We will be steam shapping the sleeve to ease into the armhole. Sometimes if you using the same pattern for the lining you will find that excess ease may be a bit bulky. You can use the dart to release some of the excess.
Step 38.Prepare the sleeve lining. We will insert into the armhole edge in the same manner as the sleeve, disregarding reference to hem and the shoulder pads.
Pro Tip. If you want to have a quilted lining you need to adjust the seam allowances (if you didn’t made the adjustment when you cut the garment) to allow extra room for the lining.
Our pea coats are only half lined. If you intend to fully line it you will be leaving a gap in the left sleeve, halfway along the seam. Big enough to pull the coat throughout when attaching the lining.
The fun thing about out peacoat is that you don’t necessary need to finish the seams with bias binding. You can use flat felt, welt, french (light weight fabrics), lapped or bound.
Seam finish: I have chosen to overlock (serge) all my lining seams closed together. Lining finish won’t show but I do recommend it that you finish the seams. Not only it will create a stronger seam for a hard wearing coat but you won’t run the risk of the lining disintegrating. Leaving a raw edge is only recommended when the fabric doesn’t fray such a felted wool, leather etc.
You probably will be preparing your front facing+ lining. Press all your pieces ready for assembly with Meg.
A quick post today, right? Keep me update of your progress with our Hastag #V1467SewAlong