Underlining is a sewing technique used to stabilize and strenghten fabrics. It also adds bulk to the main fabric reducing potential wrinkling. Not to be confused with lining as both techniques can be used together in one single garment.
- Cut an underlining piece for all your main pattern pieces, ie. front/back/sleeves…
- Your outer fabric and underlining will be cared/laundered together so therefore you need to always use fabrics that match those requirements.
- If you are using lightweight or sheer fabric you should consider underlining all adjacent pieces like collars, waistbands, facings. That will maintain a concise look for your garment
In some cases the use of underlining will eliminate the need for interfacing. If not, fuse or stitch the underlining instead of the outer fabric.
- To sew your underlining to your outer fabric, join them together, making sure you pressed the fabric before hand, sandwich them together and pin around the edges.Make sure all the pieces are laying flat and you are respecting the grain.
- Baste the layers inside the seam allowance. For lightweight and slippery fabrics I recommend hand-basting. Otherwise just make your machine stitches the longest setting. Some machines have a pre-selective basting stitch. Be mindful that those pre-settings will move the needle from the central position. You don’t want to go over the seam allowance.
- Once the underlining and the main fabric being joined, treat them as one and off you sew your garment as usually.