Unlined maxi coatigan


The unusual warm weather was just one of a few influences for this unlined coat project. I wanted a cosy layering piece. I been desiring something stylish and versatile that could easily be throw-on and worn indoors or out. The esme cardigan is originally designed for medium weight knits. Due to the pattern straight cut and loose fitting design I thought it could easily be made in a lightweight wool fabric. My favourite features of this design are the dropped shoulders and in-seam front pockets.  The only pattern change was lengthening the sleeves by 5 cm. As usually I sewn a straight size 36-38. This pattern has the sizing grouped into pairs. You may consider picking a smaller size range if you wanted a little more snug since this runs large.


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A good layering piece needs to be a “basic match-with-everything” colour. In my opinion navy is just perfect and a lot more flattering than black. It worked perfectly for the pattern. Did I mention how soft this *navy wool cashmere is. It’s described as heavy weight but I would say it is more like light/medium weight and drapes beautifully. I got a tiny bit left over which I will save to use as an under collar for a future coat. Making a knit pattern with woven fabrics is kind of breaking the rules a bit. Well, rules are there for a very good reason but it doesn’t mean they cannot be broken once in a while.

I wrote a detailed article on how to do this substitution successfully if you are interested. Picking a fabric that has the same finish on both the right and wrong side, and holds a certain weight is generally a good candidate for unlined coats.  The next step is to pick your preferred finish method.  I used flat felt on all the seams with the exception of the pockets. Which I used a pre made liberty bias binding. You can follow my step-by-step instructions on how to sew bias binding here. After wearing this a few times the pockets peak when walking which it’s cute. I’m going to add a hock and eye so I can wear this closed. I really love how easy wearing and comfortable coatigan is.

 Outfit worn with: Papercut Fall Turtleneck and handmade detachable faux fur collar.
Happy new year everyone.

*This post uses fabrics from my monthly allowance from Minerva Craft Blog Network. All opinions are my own.

  • helen

    Rachel, can you do a tutorial on the faux fur collar – love the shape of it!

    • Rachel

      It’s on my plans but at the moment not sure I have the time since I’m back to work tomorrow and winter light is just the worst. If I can take some pictures today I will.

  • It looks great. I wouldn’t have thought twice about this pattern as I’m not so excited about it as a maxi cardigan but it looks fantastic as a coat. I really like it with the addition of the fur collar.

  • You look elegant as ever! Thanks for the Minerva link, that looks like great fabric 🙂

  • Love this coatigan – it looks smart and versatile. I need a one!

  • Hélène

    So stylish! This is the perfect long coatigan for a tall silhouette like yours. All the best for 2016!

  • This is such an elegant style! I love the idea to change this into a coat. Very cool!

  • This so lovely and elegant. I bet you’ll get a lot of wear out of it.

  • Oooh Rachel this is gorgeous!!! I might have to copy you exactly – so elegant! x

  • What a great staple for this warm winter!

  • Ooh this style is made for you! You look unbearably chic! How I wish I had the height to pull off this style

  • I have a pattern on the way from Australia that looks very similar to this coat. I love the length (great for leggings and longer tunics) and the colour is perfect. Thank you for the ideas on how to finish the seams especially in light of the fact that they will show in an unlined coat. Love your coat! Looks lovely with jeans 🙂

  • Myra

    This is a really cute coat! I love both looks and it is very stylish and chic!

  • What a great layering piece. Love the idea of swapping for a light or medium weight woven.