The unusual warm weather was just one of a few influences for this unlined coat project. I wanted a cosy layering piece. I been desiring something stylish and versatile that could easily be throw-on and worn indoors or out. The esme cardigan is originally designed for medium weight knits. Due to the pattern straight cut and loose fitting design I thought it could easily be made in a lightweight wool fabric. My favourite features of this design are the dropped shoulders and in-seam front pockets. The only pattern change was lengthening the sleeves by 5 cm. As usually I sewn a straight size 36-38. This pattern has the sizing grouped into pairs. You may consider picking a smaller size range if you wanted a little more snug since this runs large.
A good layering piece needs to be a “basic match-with-everything” colour. In my opinion navy is just perfect and a lot more flattering than black. It worked perfectly for the pattern. Did I mention how soft this *navy wool cashmere is. It’s described as heavy weight but I would say it is more like light/medium weight and drapes beautifully. I got a tiny bit left over which I will save to use as an under collar for a future coat. Making a knit pattern with woven fabrics is kind of breaking the rules a bit. Well, rules are there for a very good reason but it doesn’t mean they cannot be broken once in a while.
I wrote a detailed article on how to do this substitution successfully if you are interested. Picking a fabric that has the same finish on both the right and wrong side, and holds a certain weight is generally a good candidate for unlined coats. The next step is to pick your preferred finish method. I used flat felt on all the seams with the exception of the pockets. Which I used a pre made liberty bias binding. You can follow my step-by-step instructions on how to sew bias binding here. After wearing this a few times the pockets peak when walking which it’s cute. I’m going to add a hock and eye so I can wear this closed. I really love how easy wearing and comfortable coatigan is.
*This post uses fabrics from my monthly allowance from Minerva Craft Blog Network. All opinions are my own.