As I dream of warmer spring days I continue to sew for the reality of British weather. The idea of making a coat this time of the year looks so odd in paper. A coat? You mean; a wool coat at end of April? I honest think this project couldn’t come at a better time as the temperature plumed to lower 10C (50F) this week. The coat (or coatigan = cardigan style coat) pattern is from a German small pattern company called Schnittchen. I have sewn a jumpsuit from them before. This month I’m representing Latin America on Sewing- Around- The- World tour; where 12 projects are being showcased throughout the year.
The fabric: Merchant & Mills November Sky Boiled Wool. Felted 100% wool. Perfect for unlined garments like this. When fabrics don’t fray there are so many interesting decorative finishing- techniques to choose from. Like what I did on my pink coat. When thinking about sewing a pattern with boiled wool always check the fabric label. You want to know the composition & the “gsm” aka thickness. That is because your choice of construction methods may need to be adjusted to avoid bulk. Most of the time you won’t need a walking feet unless the fabric is very thick. Boiled wool is heat sensitive so from pre-treating to pressing, what you do can dramatically affect your finish garment. Be mindful and apply heat correctly to avoid shrinkage or distortion.
Tips on working with Boiled wool:
- Check if your fabric been pre-treated before cutting. If not, you can use this technique.
- The fabric tends to stretch so stabilise neck, arm seams with fusible tape. Stabilising tips can be found here.
- If you plan to add buttonholes you also need to interface the area.
- For those who have allergies to wool or don’t like how it feels unlined on direct contact with the skin, you can use Melton wool (also vegan option). It’s a mix of viscose and polyester. I talk about other wool options on a earlier post.
- I advice working a swatch first to test the iron temperature.
For this project I choose to sew a conventional seam, finishing individual edges of the fabric on my overlocker mainly for decorative propose. I hand sewn overcasting stitches. I love how neat my jacket looks inside.
The pattern has oversized shoulders and an integrated shawl collar. There are pockets integrated into the cross seam in the front piece. I really love the oversize nature of this pattern but I didn’t want to make a long coat. I felt a shorter version would be more wearable with summer dresses later. I cropped the pattern were the original pockets are. Size-wise the pattern is true to size and size 38 fitted me well. I cannot have a coat without pockets as I have a tendency of have chilblains (allergic reaction to cold) where my fingers get very red and sore when exposed to cold temperatures. You can always spot it on photos of me outside in the cold. I sewn small side pockets and secured them with a thread chain. A great trick to keep pockets in check on unlined jackets/coats. The turtleshell buttons are from my stash. The final result it’s quite masculine and un-fussed. The length worked well on both skirts and jeans.
*Pattern and fabric were gifted for the blog tour. Choices of design interpretation, materials & words are my own.