Deer and Doe ZÉPHYR and ONDÉE


I teach a lot of Deer and Doe patterns. They generally fit well most students and I love the clean and modern designs. I want to make a comment on the fit of the Melliot pattern. (Casual shirt with drop shoulders) I usually take some time to fit my students either by tissue fitting or getting them to sew a quick toile. I feel most of my students seek more guidance on fitting than on the sewing part so I do my best to accommodate it. We noticed that even though the pattern appears to be loose fitting you must be careful picking the size. Don’t undersize yourself. The fit across the shoulders is tight. You need the ease to be able to move your arms.

Now back to catching up on the blog with a few old makes. I have two items to share today both made a while ago. Deer and Doe ZÉPHYR dress is a sleeveless knit skater dress with princess seams. Version A is a high crew neck, version B: V neck, and version C: crop top and skirt set. I made version A size 40. Overlocked with contrasting orange thread but mostly sewn on my regular machine. Fabric is some delicious organic knit from V.H. I swear I spend all my teaching cash back on sewing stuff. I lowered the darts for about 2,5 cm and I still feel I need more volume on the bust aka FBA. zelphirdresscollage


Modification: Adding the cap sleeve. I know some people would just pluck a sleeve from a pattern on another and hope it would work. I don’t recommend this method. You need to “copy”/transfer the whole armcycle from pattern A to use that pattern sleeve on Pattern B. That is what I done here. The sleeve pattern of choice was the Ondee Sweater. I have sewn the pattern last year and although shared on Instagram it never made the blog. I don’t even know If I have pictures as this project been donated last year. Too short for my comfort.

The Ondee is a cropped jersey sweater cinched at the waist, with short sleeves and contrasting collar (version A), or with long sleeves and scoop neck (version B). Deer and Doe updated their brand, instructions booklet and done some patterns modifications. I understand that this pattern has now lengthen from the original pattern by 1cm. I found both patterns to be very short waisted like most of Deer and Doe patterns.

  • Beautiful dress! Thank you for the guidance on fitting this pattern. I love Deer & Doe patterns myself but have also discovered I must always do a full bust adjustment (they are made for a smaller bust and perhaps larger hip?) but my favourite garments are using these patterns so that says something!

    • They used to draft hourglass unless they changed it. I think they been re doing a lot of their patterns when they changed packaging.

    • houseofpinheiro

      I don’t have to alter the bust in all their patterns but this one was the first.