Review:Trench Londres by Orageuse Patterns.

Coat making shouldn’t be just for winter. I love a long, flowing trench coat with traditional details like a tailored collar and wide lapels, shoulder flap, and shoulder tabs. I made mine out of a medium weight gabardine and plan to make in a solid cupro or tercel. I actually have a Preen coat just like it. Re-creating RTW substitutions have been a slow but firm goal of mine. I know those garments work in my wardrobe. Being able change so many details, fabrics etc to keep the garment within my style while updated it with current trends.  Never loosing my essence while satisfying my fashion curiosity. Talking about style I have dug deep in the rabbit hole of Curated Closet.  Not many ‘style books’ have caught my attention. I have to admit Marie Kondo method didn’t sparked any joy. Chucking it away did. Hello… hoarder here!

I have sewn this project back in April2017. Remember my french sewing pattern companies TO-SEW list? I worked on it all month like planned but just didn’t have the mojo to blog. I love talking to you; sharing tips, what I have learned and thoughts about sustainable fashion. My extrovert side cannot wait for that exchange. Sometimes I feel very introverted in my thoughts and want to keep quiet. Specially when my prolapse disks have been such a nuisance. I have taken the hiatus to gather energy to think ahead. To plan, to dream… It’s like I needed to go in a cocoon to blossom. A very needed time for a personal evolution.

The inside has no lining with instructions for you to use bias binding to finish the seams. The pocket are let loose on the side. It looks really messy. Disappointing really. Everything else about the pattern is of super quality however this lack of finish just a “what??” moment. After sewing so many french sewing patterns this “finishing or should I say lack of finishing” style seems to be the norm. You will notice this trend as I continue to review all the french patterns mentioned previously. My advice is to read the instructions in advance and highlight any possible changes before starting to sew. The reason is that sometimes you will get to a point of no return and there is nothing you can do about that untidy seam or detail without having to start again. It would take you 10 mins more than usual and a lot of peace of mind. I find reading a pattern instructions at least once before sewing very helpful to help me visualise the construction. I probably don’t check while making unless its a new skill.

I just used the pattern to create a half lining in cotton fabric to hide the messy pockets.The trench-coat is closed simply by a belt and is kind of unstructured. The choice of fabrics for this pattern is critical. You need to pick fabrics that have a certain amount of drape and weight to take the full advantage of this design. The pattern itself is well drafted. The file can be printed at home or at a copy shop.

Noteworthy recommendation: Print your patterns in the UK is my go to place. After spending many frustrated hours in different types of printers. Did you know that pattern companies A0 size isn’t standard. Let me rephrase it. Their patterns are either diagramed to print in a continuous page or break into different pages(1,2,3..). Some printers won’t print correctly when the file is diagramed to print continuously.

The pattern instructions have a few translation mishaps. For example; It calls bias ‘piping’. Nothing that will derail your understanding or mess up sewing project. I have sent my feedback on the words I found ‘weird’ to Orageuse. They use an outsourced translation service and said they would try to fix for future prints. The communication I had with them has been fast and clear so browny points on customer service. I will most definitely use this sewing pattern company again. I actually already bought few of their new pattern collection.

Most important is fit and size. I found this pattern to be true to size. I loved how it fitted me from the envelop. I will have to unpack the pattern to check if I added length on the sleeves. If you have tripod arms like myself you may wanna check it just in case. I am always the selfie stick when with friends.

I love this garment very much. It was a pleasure to sew. It’s a pleasure to wear. It’s definitely got a London vibe.

 

  • Looks tres stylish! I’ve been reading Curated Closet too. Very enjoyable.

  • fayedoll1

    This is gorgeous!

  • I am so glad to see you blogging… Instagram has been a fun diversion, but as we’ve discussed, it’s just not working anymore and I like to think we’ll all be back in long-form soon.

    I’ve been looking at Orangeuse, DP Studio, & Republique Du Chiffon, but must admit the language barrier is a bit intimidating. I’m not a beginner, so really it shouldn’t bother me, but still… I’m terrible at French…like more than any other language, I get hung up on it terribly.

    But if you can go from Portuguese to English and then get a French pattern, well I suppose I have no excuse, right?!

  • Betty Biscuit

    The coat looks beautiful on you Rachel, very stylish and a knock-out red!
    I’m with you on the importance of a good quality finishing, especially in coats and jackets where they’re often visible and also help in a practical way, gliding over the clothing beneath and avoiding the dreaded ‘sticky sleeve’ syndrome.
    I love reading your blogs, it’s great to see you back:)

  • English Girl at Home

    Stunning coat & very helpful review. I’ve just ordered some copy shop PDF patterns for the first time – I’m going to check the results &, all being well, am very excited to work with them instead of sticking together! Great to see you on your blog xx

  • Emma Prestidge

    Great review Rachel! I love your version of this pattern. I have printed this pattern and am planning to make it soon so really appreciate your tips.

  • Pretty coat! I’m with you on the finishing issues, coats need to look good on the inside too. The pattern company is now selling a separate lining kit with three additional pattern pieces. This shouldn’t come as an after thought!

  • yoursewinstyle

    Thanks for this review as I’ve just cut and stuck my pattern together and fabric purchased ( navy twill from Faberwood). Got the lining pack too for the trench and will decide if I line the whole trench or the arms only but if pockets look untidy then full lining is a big consideration. Don’t want to go to all that effort to make a beautiful trench coat to be disappointed on the inside. Looking forward to getting cracking on this as been wanting to make this since seeing your progress last year on IG. Looks amazing on you 😊

  • Oh what a red beauty of a coat! Here in my part of sunny Australia, an unlined coat is about all we need during my winter. So this will be a good option! I am about to make Kelly Anorak #2 for this winter. Welcome back! Protruding discs are so debilitating and I wish you a good recovery! – @sew_everyday

  • Tonya Renee

    See what happens when you’re a professional; you knock it out of the park every time! I love everything you make!

  • What did you get from the new collection? I bought the Bristol dress and the Amsterdam blazer (and now that the Prague blouse is out, I can’t stop thinking about it!), would be SO lovely to see your versions of those too!

  • Silvia Leis

    Your coat is very lovely! Good advice to measure the pieces since what you have in mind may not be what the pattern will make.

    I’ve a great coat love and have bought three French patterns and didn’t realize that all three didn’t have a lining! Three different French pattern companies! I’ve spent more on patterns than the coating and will end up using a Burda pattern with separate lining pieces. I still love French patterns, but will have to read more carefully.